Stromberg NA-S3A1

[robert e kachergius]

To all of you "Doubting Thomas's" out there, here is what I do. First, I completely re-manufacture a NA-S3, not just wash it out, throw a needle/seat & gaskets in it and let it go. I do on the average of 4 to 6 Strombergs EVERY WEEK...I am the one who has written 9 separate articles on Strombergs which have been published in all the club magazines and the August 2011 issue of the EAA's "VINTAGE" publication. I ran 4 separate tech seminars in the forum buildings at Oshkosh last year. My "re-mans" (not overhauls) include dis-assemble & inspect, hot dip to remove old paint & dirt, glass bead blast Aluma-Etch & Alodine the castings. replace ALL worn out parts including oilite bushings for the throttle shaft & mixture control as needed, bead blast, polish & clear coat all levers, mixture screws and filter retainer nuts, needles and seats (properly lapped & leak checked), re-assemble with all new gaskets-AN hardware & safety wire. I also check the carb for the PROPER part number (there are 19 DIFFERENT Stromberg part numbers to fit all the applications). You cannot believe how many Strombergs are out there with mis-matched parts and numbers on "type certificated" aircraft. With the WRONG number carb on your plane, you are "technically" out of annual and "un-insurable...Doubt this, call the FAA and your insurance carrier and ask them to verify what I am saying. I wrote one complete article with regards to having the PROPER carb on your plane to keep your butt out of legal trouble when and if an accident or incident occurs. My carbs are set up on a "flow bench" with the float level set "wet" to 13/32" at 1 PSI pressure. I make sure the carb has the PROPER float drop (.048" for gravity & .021" for fuel pump) and machine the lower casting to the proper dimension to be correct as needed. Most of you (including most carburetor "overhaulers) are CLUELESS as to what the importance of float drop means. Read all my published articles to learn about FLOAT DROP... 3 out of 4 carbs I get in have insufficient float drop and end need correction. EVERY carb I get in requires a lapping procedure to get the upper and lower casting contact surfaces perfectly level again. EVERY carb I do comes in with "over-torqued" screws which warp the castings in an attempt to correct that nasty fuel stain around the gasket / float bowl area. Again, read my articles to see why this problem happens. I install S.B.73 in EVERY carb I do which raises the position of the float bowl vent thus stopping that annoying fuel drip happening on most carburetors mounted to taildraggers. This mod is identified by a 1" yellow dot painted on the carb float bowl area. Guess how many carbs I get in with the "yellow dot"??? N O N E . . All this work is done including a 27 item checklist, invoice, log entry plus several copies of my newsletters so you can learn more about what makes a Stromberg "tick"...All this is done and takes 9 to 10 hours on the bench to get it right, not the hour or two most of you assume it takes to "slap" a carb back together...So, all of you out there who do not know who I am, now you do...Any questions, give me a call at 708/267-7111 and really learn what makes a Stromberg "TICK"...
R.E. "Bob" Kachergius / Pres. / A&P-IA
Uni-Tech Air Management Systems, Inc.
13221 Windward Trail
Orland Park, Illinois 60462

 

[Original 1]

 

[jimrice]

 

[bob turner]

 

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